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In , no mountain higher than 8, meters had ever been climbed. Annapurna is subtitled First Conquest of an Meter Peak and is the account of. Annapurna is the unforgettable account of this heroic climb and of its harrowing aftermath, including a nightmare descent of frostbite, snow blindness, and near. One of the great works of mountaineering literatureWITH AN INTRODUCTION BY JOE SIMPSONIn , no mountain higher than meters.

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Well written but pretty self-aggrandizing account of the 1st summit of 8, m peak. One thing I found strange about the translation, as I suspect that is where it occurred, is the constant changing of units of measure. The kindle version was disappointing because I recalled maps and photographs that helped the reader understand the difficulties and the adventure.

At this point, Herzog looked like an elite mountaineer who knew what to do when and how to go about it. Jul 15, Kenneth rated it it was amazing. Amazon’s editorial review says, “Before Everest, there was Annapurna. A great read for mountaineering and adventure enthusiasts especially. Published June 1st by Lyons Press first published The Will to Climb: InMaurice Herzog planned and executed the climb of the highest peak in Napal.

He and his team were the first. Top Reviews Qnnapurna recent Top Reviews. In fact, Herzog had made all his fellow climbers sign some papers stating that no one should write their own account about the expedition for a stipulated amount of time. Since, we are talking only about 8000-mdter account of the ascent of Annapurna; I will rest my suspicion aside and consider this book to be a true account of the climb.

Even today, in the face of the growing commercialism of Everest, Annapurna remains one of the deadliest mountains, having only been summited around times.

I read this a few years back and thought I had reviewed it here but it seems not. They became the first men to accomplish the feat, doing so without oxygen tanks or any of the modern equipment that contemporary firs use.


Annapurna: The First Conquest of an 8,000-Meter Peak

But how they had to push for the summit, in time, before the monsoons hit them hard, is also stated well. Explore the Home Gift Guide. My library Help Advanced Book Search. Their arrogance and narcissism is incredible, but I understand it and was riveted by the book.

The climbing from one camp to another, setting up a camp, going out for reconnaissance, finding routes, looking for possibilities, all sounded highly inspiring and motivating to a climber like me. This was one of the first adult books I read as a child about 60 yrs ago.

July 26, Sold by: In particular, outdated maps and paths listed yet nonexistent, higher than average water levels and a much longer hike to the base of the mountain portented a shortage of supplies and possible failure.

Already suffering from cold feet, Herzog and Lachenal decide to make a summit bid.

But I do love reading about expeditions and this is without doubt one of the best. Maurice Herzog and other members of the French Alpine Club resolved to try. I was disappointed in the lack of photographs, and have it four stars for that reason.

At the time of the assault, it was the highest mountain ever climbed, a remarkable feat in itself made all the more remarkable by the fact that it had never previously been charted. Ventures Among Men and Mountains.

Annapurna: The First Conquest of an 8,Meter Peak by Maurice Herzog

The remarkable part of the story isn’t the ascent but rather the descent as Herzog and his team were supported down from Annapurna after a first ascent which would change all of their lives and rewrite what was considered possible in the world’s h Each spring break when I trek in Nepal, I pick up a book about the Himalayas, and this year’s addition did not disappoint.

As riveting as the tale of the ascent remains nearly half a century later, the story of the descent through virtually unsurvivable–think avalanche and frostbite, for starters–conditions is unforgettable. An instant bestseller, it remains one of the most famous mountaineering books of all time, and an enduring testament to the power of the human spirit.


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Though, I will never shy away from going to THE next level, I will not shy away from taking calculated risks. Due to the poor quality of their maps and cloudy days, they cannot find it. The 3 stars are just for the initial chapters. No surprise that his record has become controversial.

After all he was the one who lead everybody in such a disaster. Turns out that there are many conflicting views of Herzog and other climbers. Their successful summit was miraculous, and would not be repeated again for many years. Feb 20, Ridhika Khanna rated it liked it Shelves: This is told by Herzog in the style ofand first-person is what it is.

Retrieved from ” https: Add to this that smokes and sleeping pills were a routine part of their day and you start to get an idea of how crazy this expedition was!

The entire time after coming down to Camp V, Herzog was only interested in his treatment and how he will get down obviously with the tremendous effort of his team and sherpas. In fact the two who sumitted would almost certainly have died. I am amazed at the way these men suffered and persevered. It recounts the first successful climb of a mountain greater than 8, meters Because of the holidays, and subsequent responsibilities, as well as an approaching trip to Europe, I took longer to read than usual.

There was also, at the time another mountaineering party preparing to climb Everest. Conquest of the First metre Peak is a famous and important book in the Outdoor literature genre.

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Your reaction may be only slightly less extreme as you move from one nail-biting moment to the next in this wonderful tale of triumph and frostbite. Then why the 3 stars? I just can’t imagine what these guys were thinking and feeling.